“Tom’s been an absolute amazing support to me here,” he said. Hawkings had heard from him earlier in the day. He’d been scheduled to attend, but couldn’t make it out of London, apparently due to bad weather. The one thing missing at this Tom Ford show was Tom Ford himself. (The Ermenegildo Zegna Group operates the license.) “It’s absolutely everything to me,” he said, “We’ve been working on changing manufacturers, making sure shoes are beautifully made and comfortable, and bringing the tailoring up to the same level as the men’s.” On the women’s side, the velvet pant suits modeled after another iconic Gucci collection by Ford were particularly convincing it’s the category that Hawkings knows best. Hawkings’s other talking point backstage tonight was quality. “It’s so important, bringing that woman closer to the man,” he said tonight, “so that they’re one universe.” As Hawkings revealed in that interview, prior to his departure Ford was handling womenswear from Los Angeles, and Hawkings was doing menswear from London, and oftentimes there was a disconnect between the two. Consistency is the idea, and consolidation too. This isn’t a new designer/new direction debut, the kind we’re likely to get at Gucci tomorrow, where Sabato De Sarno has replaced Alessandro Michele, another Ford-era Gucci veteran. Ford’s codes, “of glamour, sexiness, elegance, and beauty,” as Hawkings put it to my colleague Mark Holgate, are his own codes. He worked alongside Ford for 25 years, since back in the Gucci days. 24 followed by up-and-coming names including Karoline Vitto, the Brazilian but London-based designer supported by Dolce & Gabbana as part of the duo’s talent endorsing program previously granted on Matty Bovan, Tomo Koizumi and Miss Sohee.How do you replace Tom Ford? Peter Hawkings, the newly appointed creative director at the label, which Ford and his partner Domenico de Sole sold to the Estée Lauder Companies in April of this year, is better positioned than just about anybody for the job. Jil Sander, Missoni, Ferrari and Ferragamo will also show Saturday which is to end with Matthieu Blazy’s coed spring 2024 collection for Bottega Veneta and the Philipp Plein show.Īfter years of runway shows at New York Fashion Week, Chiara Boni La Petite Robe is coming back home with a morning slot on Sept. 23 after years of physical presentations and, most recently, look book releases, sometimes flanked by fashion week party events. The Attico founders, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, also typically present in-season but are making their runway debut on Sept. Having embraced the see now, buy now format seasons ago, the latter brand has traveled to several destinations including Dubai, Milan and Miami for its spring collections, sticking to Milan’s September fashion week to unveil its fall lineups. MSGM, Versace and Sunnei earmarked afternoon slots that day, which is to be closed by the Boss coed fall 2023 show. CET, De Sarno’s women’s spring 2024 collection for Gucci will be unveiled at an undisclosed location, marking a much anticipated turning point for Kering’s star brand one day before its chief executive officer Marco Bizzarri departs on Sept. 22, followed by Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Sportmax.Īt 3 p.m. ![]() Walter Chiapponi’s swansong at Tod’s after the brand revealed its departure will open the Milan schedule on Sept. ![]() The brand is without a creative director, following the exit of Jeremy Scott in March after 10 years. CET at a still undisclosed location and Moschino’s 40th anniversary celebrations.Īs reported, the brand will pay tribute to the legacy of founder Franco Moschino conscripting stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu to each create 10 contemporary looks inspired by the works of the late designer. 21, which also will feature Hawkings’ coed show for Tom Ford at 9 p.m. ![]() Prada, Max Mara, and Emporio Armani are among the brand showing on Sept. Fendi, Alberta Ferretti, Etro and Roberto Cavalli will all show that day. As reported, the brand designed by Glenn Martens will once again open the doors of its runway show to the public. CET coed show at the Scalo Farini location. It opens with Iceberg and Antonio Marras, and will be capped off by Diesel, which swapped its usual lunchtime slot for a 9 p.m.
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